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markha valley trek
 

Markah Valley with Zalung Karpo:

 
 

A feast of scenic and ethnic diversity, the Markha Valley with Ruphu Valley Trek is one of the Ladakh's classic treks, a rugged high-altitude hiking on Stok range. Begin the Trek at the famous trailhead at Hemis Monastery. Along the way we pass prayer flags rippling silently in the fresh wind, and walk into small green valleys, greeted by cheery herders. We cross three passes including Kongmaru La (5150 Mts.), higher than two others' to reach the Markha valley south of Leh.  Many named & un-named peaks in the altitude range of 5500 Mts. To 6400 Mts. makes the great amphitheater. We start our trek at Martselang & end our trek at the village of Stok. ss s

You can spent the nomads at the high altitude grazing plateau of Nyimaling, and contour around the majestic, snow-capped Kang Yatze, cresting a panoramic pass before reaching the remote valley leading into Kharnak. After crossing the 5200 meter Zalung Karpo La, with snow-clad Kang Yatze behind us, we enter the Ladakhi nomadic region of Kharnak. We camp in our own Tibetan-style festival tent near the Kharnak-pa nomadic settlements, their flocks of sheep and goats herded into camp in the late afternoon by the shrill cries of the nomad inhabitants. Their yak-hair tents, which they move caravan-style every few months, are the same as they have been for centuries, worth a visit for a cup of salt-butter tea, fresh yogurt and a handful of yos. This region, the Changtang plateau, extends far north into Tibet, and sits  along the old Silk Route, once the main highway for the exchange of silk, tea, pearls, wool, salt and other commodities.

Kyang (wild ass), marmots, pika, Himalayan hare and a variety of high altitude birds share the high plateaus with us, so bring your binoculars. A wonderful journey through a piece of 'old Tibet'!

Season: Mid June – Mid September
Grade: Challenging Trek
Duration: 26 Nights
Highest Point: 5450M Yalung Nyau La,
Cost:-2012 US $ 3075/- Per Person on Twin Sharing Basis. (Minimum 02 Paying Pax)

DAY 1: ARRIVAL DELHI:
A representative will meet your inside the arrival hall at New Delhi International transfer to you your hotel, usually not much time before your flight the next morning so try to get to sleep as early as possible. Hotel near by the airport because you have the flight to Leh.

DAY 2: DELHI - LEH, 3500m (FLIGHT)
Very early in the morning in steamy Delhi as you board the spectacular flight out of Delhi, crossing the main Himalayan Barrier and flying over much of Zanskar and Ladakh to reach Leh. On arrival at Leh airport meet to our assistace drive to hotel. You should feel the elevation when you arrive, it's a big jump from sea-level to 3500 meters, and it will take your body a few days to adjust to this altitude. Drink plenty of water, rest and don't over-exert yourself wandering around Leh. Afternoon a short walk in the Leh Market. Overngiht at hotel.

DAY 3: LEH :
We've scheduled extra days to enjoy the peaceful, willow-lined streets and bustling bazaar of Singge Namgyal's 17th century capital of Ladakh. There is lots to explore in this wonderful town, the newly-restored ruins of the royal Leh Palace, the ancient Leh Fort and attached Namgyal Tsemo Gompa, other colorful Tibetan Buddhist gompas. Recommended take a 'jeep safari' through the fertile Indus Valley to visit Sankar Gompa, Shanti Stupa and Spituk monaster, the Mahayana Buddhist gompas, the crumbling ruins of ancient fortresses and palaces and the traditional villages that dot the banks of the region, the 'cradle of civilization' of much of the ancient world.

DAY 4: LEH- JINCHEN - YURUTE 3900 (5-6 HRS TREK) :
After breakfast, we jump into our jeeps and head for the start of the trek, turning off the Leh Srinagar highway just past the ancient, 14th century Spitok Gompa, spectacularly perched on a craggy hillock above the cultivated fields of Spitok village. After crossing the Indus River and following it on a precipitous road for an hour, we intersect the Jinchan Chu (river) and meet our horsemen and team at the hamlet of Jingchan. Time to start trekking .
With the Jingchan Chu as our guide, we trek up a narrow, green valley, crossing many times on small, wooden bridges or jumping when there is no bridge, stopping for lunch under shady trees. The trail pass through a small canyon, past cairns with prayer flags and Buddhist mani walls, and have our first view of the snow-peaks of the Stok Range to the south and the Ladakh Range to the north. Entering a broad valley, we reach the grassy campsite at Rumbak Sumdo where we set up our first camp of the trek. We'll set you up in your tents, show you around our 'Kamzang' style dining tent and settle in with a mug of tea. Beers are available at a small tea-house nearby, and since we haven't ascended too high, you can chill one in the stream!

DAY 5: YURUTSE- GANDA LA (4980M) SHINGO-SKIU 3750M, 7-8 HRS TREK:
Our first pass day. It's not a difficult or long pass, and shouldn't take more than two hours to the top from high camp. We start off with a steep climb of the hill to the right of camp, along a gully, and then switch backing up to the top of the hill. Behind us, Stok Kangri looms impressively, and we will take some time to catch our breath and take in the views. It will take us about an hour to reach the pass from here; at the Ganda La (4980 meters), 360 degree views await us, and we can see as far as the Zanskar Range to the south. After hanging our first multi-colored Tibetan prayer flags, we head steeply down into the Shingo Valley, which we can see below us. The trail becomes more gradual, and about 2 and half hours later, having passed a local 'doksa', a long mani wall flanked by impressive chortens and a small 'parachute' tea-house, we wander through Shingo Village and arrive at our green campsite nearby. Shingo is a small hamlet of two house, marked by chortens and a mani wall, situated along a small, sparkling stream. Continue follow the "Chu" till the Skiu (Markah River), Heading down-valley through a narrow, colorful canyon of craggy rocks and unusual rock formations, we cross the Shingo stream several times en route (jumping). Willows shade us a bit as we continue on, and the seabuckthorne bushes will be sagging under the weight of their tart, orange berries. Passing a tea-house along the trail followed by a line of ancient chortens, we reach the lovely village of Skyu, and have time to explore the thousand year old Skyu Gompa and have a cup of tea at one of the many parachute tents. Here at Skyu, we intersect the route into the Markha Valley from Chilling, and intersect the Markha River, Very nice camping site near by the Markha river.

DAY 6: SKIU-MARKHA, 3760M, 7-8 HRS TREK:
Continuing along the Markha River along the left bank, we pass the many white-washed chortens, mani walls and ancient, carved Buddha rocks that mark the trail out of Skyu, and trek through willow and poplar groves, past traditional Ladakh houses, up onto a cliff-side trail. We'll reach a cluster of old, crumbling chortens perched high on a ridge, which afford us a wonderful view up and down the valley, in a couple of hours and soon afterwards will arrive at the parachute tent at Sumdo for lunch. A beautiful, diverse, as we continue again along the left bank of the Markha River. Leaving camp, we ascend gradually to a wide plateau with a long mani wall and chortens, and then descend to the two houses of Nakdi, which look out towards an ancient meditation cave on the plateau across the river. We arrive Sara, the parachute-tent and camping site at the rocky riverbed which intersects the Markha River, and then pass briar patches of seabuckthorne and the ruins of ancient 'dzongs' and monasteries built high up into the cliff sides. Crossing another small bridge, we reach the small tea-house of a local wood-carver and walk along the left bank of the river, past the fields of Chalak, with spectacular canyons and spires above us, along the trail marked by old, crumbling Tibetan chortens. After passing a long mani wall and impressive, giant chortens (look back for wonderful views of the Markha Valley behind us), we'll stop for a break at an ancient 'lhatoo', or offering monument for the local mountain deities, where offerings of chang are served up in sheep horns. A powerful site. As we approach the intersection of the Markha valley with another small tributary about an hour later, we'll pass a group of tri-colored chorten marking the valley, gaze up-valley at the cliff-dwelling built into the valley wall, and descend by the wolf trap to the river, where we often have a wide river crossing (sandals recommended). We'll see the ruins of the Markha fort ahead of us on a hillside before we arrive at the village about half an hour later. We camp at one of two wonderful, grassy campsites, and are visited by all the village kids before dinner ...

DAY 7: MARKHA-THACHUNCHE 4260M, 6-7 HRS TREK:
Another classic Himalaya trekking day, a bit longer than yesterday, starting with a climb up on the cliff-side trail just past camp  for amazing views back to the Ladakh Range. We have two river crossings today, so bring your sandals in your daypack. The first crossing comes just after our first descent, not deep but wide. Just afterwards we'll spot the monolith and stone 'lama's seat' where a local Druk-pa Lama gives a yearly puja. Look up the valley off to the right leading to the Ruberang La and the wild Jumlam trek.

One more river crossing and we've reached the breath-taking Tertha Gompa, also affiliated with Hemis Gompa, built at the top of a razor-sharp rock, and with views up and down the valley. We'll hike up for a look; they've recently built a new assembly hall above the old one. Soon, we approach the small hamlet of Umlung, at 3900 meters, where we'll stop for a seabuckthorn juice, produced locally by the Markha women's groups. From Umlung, take the high, cliff-side trail when the water is high; it affords wonderful views in any case.

Ahead of us, the dramatic 6400 meter Kang Yatze finally comes into sight, its peak a pure, triangular snow-cap. We have another hour or so of river-side walking in blue-sheep territory before reaching Hangkar (3950 meter) guarded by a fantastic fortress way up on the top of a rock spire.  From Hangkar, it's a wonderful two-hour afternoon walk up to the summer grazing area of Thagutse, where the dramatic afternoon high-altitude light make for spectacular photos. Our campsite is another beautiful one, so enjoy a late afternoon wash in the gurgling, rocky stream, or take a short hike and look out for blue sheep, which descend to the stream for a drink. Plenty of bird life as well ...

DAY 8: THACHUNCHE - NIMALING 4850M, 5-6 HRS TREK:
Another wonderful day of trekking, not long but absolutely spectacular, with broad views of the Zanskar range, and Kang Yatze as a back-drop. The trail snakes up the valley in back of our campsite, and crests several ridges before reaching a small doksa and pond where the reflection of Kang Yatze and the peak itself right in front of us reward us for our climb. In back of us is one of the most dramatic views of the trek, with layers and layers of peaks clothed in subtle hues guarding the skyline. Another hour brings us to the high altitude grazing region of Nyimaling, where Hangkar villagers herd their flocks of Pashmina sheep as they've done for centuries. We set up another scenic campsite, have lunch and have the entire afternoon to wander, look for wildlife and explore this unique, high plateau. Yaks roam freely, creating a perfect Tibetan environment. To the right is the Kongmaru-La, the 5200 meter pass that leads out of the Markha Valley.

Just before sunset the villagers return to their stone doksas with their flocks of hundreds of sheep and goats, and we can head over for a visit, perhaps even for a bowl of fresh yogurt. Sunsets are truly awe-inspiring on the plateau, with a flaming, red orb descending behind the hills in down-valley from us, and setting the snaking Nyimaling Chu ablaze with color.

DAY 9: NIMALING- ZALUNG KARPO (High Camp 4675m) 7-8 HRS TREK:
We'll have an early morning start with the sheep as it's a long day, nearly eight hours, and you'll need your sandals for the tail-end of it. Heading up the deceptively steep ridge in back of camp, right towards Kang Yatze, keep right and low as we contour around the snow-peak to the ridge visible ahead. At the second, cairn-marked ridge, we descend to Kang Yatze Base Camp and ford a small stream, usually jump-able, contouring for another hour towards the Kongka Ngongpo La (5090 meters).  After admiring the broad views, we switch-back right back down, steeply and a bit precipitously, towards the Langthang Chu Valley and our High Camp for the Zalung Karpo La. Our barely-perceptible trail leads us past summer doksas and into more blue sheep territory.

After lunch on a rocky-outcropping, we descend to the river and Mani Chen, meaning 'place of mani stones', an old stop on the nomadic route. If the rivers are low we'll continue on another hour or so to Zalung Karpo La High Camp, a rocky campsite with late afternoon sun. We'll have a few small river crossings en route, and if its hot you might even want to jump into one of the inviting pools of clear water.

DAY 10: ZALUNG KARPO- TSOKARA 4330m (over Zalung Karpo La 5220m) 7-8 HRS TREK:
We'll have an early start for our first pass, the Zalung Karpo La, and again you'll probably want your sandals with you if the rivers are high. It will take us less than an hour of rocky, riverside walking to reach the access valley to the pass from camp, our valley is the second large valley on the right, just ten minutes past the first one. Heading up this rocky valley, we follow a small stream much of the way up as we gradually ascend until the way opens up to a false summit, and finally about an hour later, the 5220 meter Zalung Karpo La itself. Ahead in the distance, both the Zanskar and the Himalayan ranges are visible, an impressive site.

If it's not too windy, we'll have lunch at the prayer flags on top of the pass. The descent is steep and sandy, and the valley below can be scorching; we are now entering Kharnak, translated as 'black fort', the high altitude grazing region of the Ladakhi nomads. We have about 2 1/2 more hours of hiking, with a few hills but mostly river-walking, and possibly a few tricky river crossings depending on the water lever. Finally, 7-8 hours from this morning's campsite, we'll reach our lovely, grassy campsite at the grazing region called Tsokra.

DAY 11: TSOKARA- DAT 4310m, 6-7 HRS TREK:
A canyon day, another long one, starting with easy river crossings as we trek along an easy river-side trail, continuing through a nomadic settlement with threshing fields and an old mill which look as if they've not been used for years, and then through other nomadic settlements with livestock paddocks and stone looms, more recently used (as seen by the amount of livestock droppings). The ruined fort, called 'Khar Fortress' (and which Kharnak is named after), is perched impressively above us, an ancient guard of the many valleys. The day continues with more superlatives springing to mind. We approach a fantastic, narrow and sculpted canyon of ankle deep water (why use the bridge?) and then a broad canyon of dramatic spires, tawny cliffs, willows and a gurgling river. We'll take the willowy trail on the right side of the river as blue sheep have kicked stones from above, which have come hurtling down on the left trail ... Note the wonderful cliffs, sculpted by centuries of ice and water erosion.

Turning left at the wide intersection of Tantse Sumdo, we follow the Kharnak (or Chang) Chu, headding further into Kharnak and the pasturelands of Dat. Another 2 1/2 hours later, after trekking through a hot,  bug-infested (but lovely)  valley of willows and cliffs cut by the Kharnak Chu, the valley opens to damp, green pastures. Lunch is somewhere nearby. We climb on a cliff-side trail, descend again, and soon reach the fantastic Kharnak 'lhatoo' (called Lhatoo on the map), where the nomads and local monks make offerings to their local deities during a ceremony called Gertsa, which takes place for five days from the end of May to early June (corresponds with Saga Dawa). Men place a new ritual arrow on the lhatoo, signifying men's protection under the gods. (Women aren't allowed at this ceremony ...). Beautifully carved mani stones are piled along extensive platforms, yak skulls carved with Om Mani Padme Hum are stacked in the main altar, bowls smelling of old butter await next year's puja and multi-colored prayer flags flutter in the wind. Red and yellow-billed Choughs, revered as messengers of the mountain gods, sit aloft high prayer-flag poles. Climb the hill for a great view. Overall, an impressive entrance to Dat!

Continuing on through a lush valley of meandering streams and springs bordered by high, brick-red, wildly contorted cliffs, we pass other doksas and more lhatoos, shrines to the mountain gods that live on the surrounding peaks. Yaks graze and cool themselves in the streams, and a cloud of dust could be a nomad on horseback. A couple of hot hours later, after cresting two arid plateaus with long mani walls and wonderful carvings which indicate an old trade route, we have reached Dat.

Our campsite for the next two nights is lovely, high pastureland next to the now-deserted village of Shemen. Dat, which houses approximately forty families (although many have now moved to Choglamsar) in the Spring and late Autumn, is actually composed of the two villages of Dango (upper) and Shemen (lower). The nomadic villagers move to the Sangtha and Lumgmoche valleys with their flocks in the summer months, and to the valley behind Dat few a couple of months in the wintertime.

Marmots share the campsite with us and kyang might check us out from the ridge above Dat. Sunsets and sunrises are glorious from camp, so it's worth a visit to the small, monk-run teahouse to pick up a beer for 'sundowner' ...

DAY 12: DAT - LUNGMOCHE 4730M (OVER YAR LA 4950M) 7-8 HRS TREK:
Another pass day, starting with a flat, three hour hike down-valley, parallel to the Zanskar Range, during which we often see the herd of kyang that reside in the nearby valleys and wander these valleys (kyang translates as 'wander' in Ladakhi). The male often comes out to the main valley to scout for the herd of females and younger males, all of which will snort, paw the ground and arrange an impressive maneuver for us if their territory is threatened. Himalayan hares also live in the valley, and dart in and out of site. Fill your bottles at the turnoff to the pass valley as there may not be any water until the other side of our pass, the 4950 meter Yar La. We have lunch at the start of the pass (or at top if we're fit and moving fast), and then head up towards the pass, a relatively easy climb of just over an hour from lunch, following the winter snow wall. The chorten on the pass has some beautiful carvings including the Kharnak mountain deity, a lovely mountain goddess called Tsering Ma (Ched Inga), the eldest of five sisters, also recognized in Tibet. Most of these nomadic mountain dieties are Bon dieties which have been subdued by Guru Rimpoche as protectors of the Buddhist faith. We can see the campsite just five minutes down the pass, and it will only take us half an hour to reach camp at Lungmoche, another lovely pastureland, again with a nearby stream for washing. We're in kyang territory still, so keep your cameras ready ...

DAY 13; LUNGMOCHE - SPAGMUR 4610M, 6-7 HRS TREK:
Heading down valley along the snaking riverbed, we pass the summer habitations of the Ladakhi nomads, now just rings of rocks for the yak-hair tents, wells and stone storage huts. Kyang also inhabit this valley; we've seen them racing across the valley to ward us off. Climbing a small pass to the right of the trail, we descend through a fantastic canyon of sculpted rocks to the plateau of Sangtha village, and its sparse settlement which locals inhabit in the autumn. This village marks the end of Ladakhi nomadic region and the start of Tibetan one. After crossing the Zara Chu (bring your sandals), which eventually leads to Zanskar, we stop for lunch at the chortens marking the entrance to Spagmur and the exit from Sangtha. Another few hours of trekking brings us to the Tibetan village of Spagmur, perhaps with a herd of yaks grazing nearby. Look back across the Zara Chu to see 'The Five Sisters' peaks, the dwelling of the five mountain goddesses that live in the distinctly shaped range.

DAY 15: SPAGMUR - NARBUS 4820M, 7-8 HRS TREK:
We start right up the steep slope heading towards the 4950 meter Spogmur La, having to contour around several hillsides to reach the top two hours later; from here, we are treated to wide open mountain views and we can spot way below the canvas and yak-hair tents of the Tibetan nomadic settlement of Narbus, where we'll set up camp for the night. Some relatives of Lobsang's, one of our guides, camp here every summer, and we can take a look at the inside of a nomad tent or two in the afternoon. Be ready, as we will be offered salt tea and fresh curd (yogurt). Narbus is a good place to donate your supplies or extra clothes; two years ago we had a meeting of a the women from each tent, and distributed evenly much needed school supplies and extras, and last year we bargained for yak and sheep-hair blankets and nomadic knives with binoculars, a Leatherman and some cash.

The evenings are a wonderful time of the day here; as the sun just begins to set, the nomads return to camp herding their hundreds of sheep and goats, and the yaks wander back to the tents, followed by the haunting yells of the Tibetans.

DAY 16 NARBUS- NUMA RIVER CAMP 4610M, 7-8 HRS TREK:
After goodbyes to our Markha Valley trekkers, we cut across the Narbus valley for two hours to the Leh - Manali highway, and then right across the plateau towards the spectacular canyon that extends from Pang. It can be hot and there is now shade, so it's a good day for an umbrella. Look up and down valley in as the views are spectacular, especially as we reach the edge of the plateau leading to Pang. Dropping steeply down a scree-filled gully, we slip our way down to the riverbed far below. Our campsite is right on the river at the intersection of a lovely stream, under the pillars of eroded sand which have formed themselves into Himalayan cathedrals called hoodoos. We'll have time in the afternoon for a wash in the river, or a wander up the stream bed to the left of camp ...

DAY 17: NUMA RIVER CAMP-ZOZGONG 4940M, 8-9 HRS TREK:
The trek takes on a completely different character now, as we follow the wide valley for 2 1/2 hours along the flood plain, jumping (and splashing through) the river many times and passing three large valleys (one without water) to the left side of the river. Crumbling hoodoos line the trail on either side, backed by vivid blue skies and fluffy Himalayan clouds. Eventually, we reach the large turnoff at the far left of the valley, which leads to the base of the Thelekang La, the 4980 meter pass above our camp. From the turnoff, it should take us about 1 1/2 hours of walking along a small stream with wide open views to reach the hill leading to the pass, and another easy hour of climbing to the pass. En route, we'll see large flocks of sheep and Pashmina goats roaming the hillsides with their owners. Below us, we see the horses reaching our campsite and ahead in the distance, the snow-capped Himalayas to the south of Lake Tso Moriri. Zozogong is a fantastic campsite; years ago we woke up surrounded by snow after an evening of kyang spooking our horses the night before. There is sometimes a group of Korzok-pa nomads camped here, so we may have company. Views are great, camp is grassy, there is plenty of water for washing, so enjoy the afternoon!

DAY 18: ZOZGONG - THARGANG NOMAD CAMP 4750M, 7-8 HRS TREK:
We'll have a leisurely morning as it's such a nice spot, and start off down the wide flood-plain heading towards the impressive Himalayan range ahead. More kyang spotting this morning in what we call 'kyang valley' about one and half hours from camp; we often first spot the 'alpha' male keeping watch for the herd of younger males and females, snorting and pawing as we approach, and then gathering the whole herd together and kicking up a trail of dust as they bolt by us, close by. We might also see Himalayan hare, pikas, voles and marmot, and there are many of high-altitude birds en route. The plain becomes soft and marshy as the river runs below it and flowers bloom abundantly; nearby we'll stop for lunch, about three hours from camp, on a grassy knoll. Past more grazing valleys and nomad encampments, we continue along the flood plains to our campsite, near a Ladakhi nomadic settlement. Most of the nomads are gone until the evening, but we might wander over to see if they have any fresh curd; one year Kim bought a wonderful blanket from these nomads, so worth a look around. Kyang also roam the nearby valleys, and over the next few days we should see many of these majestic creatures.

We might continue on another hour to 'Himalaya View Camp' which we discovered last year, a less windy spot with wonderful views and a pebbly, gurgling river beside the grassy banks.

DAY 19 THARGANG - LHATOO GOMPA 4670M, 6-7 HRS TREK:
Off towards another pass, but a small one this time, the Mani Chen La. Staying on the left of the river (we have to jump it from camp), we follow the pebbly, clear river which reflects the Himalayas in the calm of the morning. We either crest a few small plateaus, or stay along the river if it's low. From 'Himalaya View Camp' about 1 1/2 hours from camp it's only another half an hour of easy climbing to the Manechan La (4765m). We approach a doksa after the steep descent from the pass, and have to jump two streams and cross three plateaus as we continue down-valley. The large, rounded granite boulders and chunks of crystallized quartz indicate that the landscape is changing. We'll likely see more kyang at the lhatoo before camp. After a short day, we'll have lunch on the grassy plateau at a large, bubbling stream just across from camp to let the boys unload the horses which should arrive at around the same time that we do. There is a gurgling stream next to the dining tent, and if the sun is out it's a wonderful spot for bathing.

DAY 20: LHATOO-KYANGDOM 4530M, 7-8 HRS TREK:
Today it seems as if we drop off the edge of the world as we follow the rocky gorge bottom past nomad camps marked by stone circles and bleached sheep skulls. It is a wonderful 'river walk' day with kyang mirroring us as we trek down-valley; we stay on the left bank, or walk in the center of the valley on smooth river pebbles. The canyon seems to shut itself behind us at the large river bend to the left after nearly four hours, and just after this we might need our sandals if the river is high. There are some springs along the river if you need to fill your bottles. We have another hour until we climb on a slightly exposed trail for our first, spectacular view the turquoise Lake Tso Moriri, which stretches north from here for 26 kilometers. Below, past the sculptural twists and turns of the delta, is our campsite of Kyangdom, home to groups of Ladakhi nomads for a few months of the summer. We'll set up lunch here, in our perfect Himalayan cafe. Kyangdom, which translates as 'realm of the kyang' (kyang means roam in Ladakhi), actually does harbor many kyang in the southern delta. They often stand still and shimmering in the morning sun, seeming an illusion from a far away desert land ...

There is time to explore in the afternoon; watch the geese and ducks, spot the cormorants, photograph the lake, set up your camp chair in the sun and watch the world of the nomads go by. The Korzok-pa nomads often camp just across the streams from camp, and an excursion to one of their tents to buy some 'tsampa' (barley flour), 'yos' (half-popped barley) or 'chang' (barley beer) is a step back into time. At the end of the afternoon, the sheep, Pashmina goats and yaks return to the nomad camps, herded by wild-looking nomads on horseback, and later the sunset turns the lake shades of pink and orange ...

DAY 21: KYANGDOM - KORZOK PHU, 4640M, 8-9 HRS TREK:
We'll leave our lovely camp early as it's a long, hot trek along the eastern edge of Lake Tso Moriri to our camp at Korzok Phu. It's a wonderful day of walking along smooth rocks reflecting in the river, watching the geese, up and over hills where you get views of the clouds and snow-peaks to the west mirrored in the lake, next to sandy beaches and across a river or two after lunch, no sandals needed. Water is scarce until this point, so be prepared. After lunch next to some rounded, granite rocks on the bank of the lake, we jump these two run-off streams, continue past many mani walls and make one last climb to reach the small pass which affords us magnificent views of the renovated Korzok Gompa and the surrounding village. A further half hour brings us to Korzok, a popular camping spot as the road from Leh reaches here. We'll explore the gompa a bit, have a cup of tea, stock-up on beer for later and then continue on to our campsite 45 minute inland. This last bit of the day is lovely, following a well-used trail and a meandering stream, jumping from one dry green tussock to another, to reach our camp in the midst of all of the nomadic action. Welcome to Korzok Phu.

DAY 22: FULL DAY REST:
Why not stay a day after all of this arduous trekking and enjoy this bustling, colorful settlement? Nomad boys cruise by on their donkeys if there isn't school that day, and many children stop by to see if there are any pens or pencils being handed out. Kim will lead the shopping expedition to several nomad tents in search of yak-hair blankets and a cup of salt butter tea ...

DAY 23: KARZOK PHU - CHANGAM 5250M,
We leave early for the steep climb up to the 5450 M Yalung Nyau La, it should take us about an hour of walking along the plateau to reach the approach to the pass, and then three more hours to crest the prayer-flag festooned pass. The weather can be changeable, so be ready for anything. The views back down to Tso Moriri are wonderful, and to the south of the pass are the Mentok (flower) Peaks. The descent is beautiful, past grazing areas and through grassy, narrow valleys and a slate-slab river which we'll need to jump a few times. We stop for lunch on a grassy knoll next to the river, kick off our shoes, and enjoy a deserved rest! We continue through the small settlement of Sherma and another called Barma, crossing a river in between (you can wade without shoes if you don't feel like carrying your sandals over the pass). One more river crossing, this time possibly jump-able, past Barma and we head up and over the relatively small pass ahead of us, Kartse La (4505 meters) and right down to our grassy campsite at Changma, our highest yet at 5210 meters. This valley is pure Tibet; open, grassy plateaus, wild, amazing views, big sky and nomads on horseback herding their sheep.

DAY 24: CHANGAM - RAJUNG KARU 4880M, 8-9 HRS TREK:
A short but beautiful day, starting with a two hour trek up the wide open 'Tibetan' plateau, with marmots and pikas popping their heads out of their holes to see who is passing, walking through herd of wild-looking yaks and dri (female yaks) with their young frolicking by their sides. The high route back to the valley we took to Tso Moriri is visible at the upper left side of the valley. We follow a winding, crystal clear stream for most of the way up to the pass, and eventually veer to the right to ascend the Kyamayuri La (5430 meters), an easy ascent. At the prayer flags at the top of the pass we finally get a view of Tso Kar Lake below us, and the trail leading down to it. The descent to camp will take us about 2 hours, and en route we'll pass by many nomadic encampments with their Tibetan mastiffs chained to a stick in the ground, hopefully tightly. More kyang in this green valley. Again, we follow the river to our camp at Rajung Karu, set up, have lunch and enjoy the rest of the afternoon.

DAY 25: RAJUNG KARU  - TSOKAR LAKE 4560M, 6-7 HRS TREK:
Our last trekking day, with a wonderful destination. It will take us 2 hours to reach the Horlam Kongka La (4950 meters), and we'll have a river crossing first. More nomad camps, more grassy tussocks, and an easy ascent of the rounded saddle for closer views of Tso Kar. The descent isn't the most interesting, passing through the settlement of Nuruchen with its supply posts, but our campsite is spectacular, so we'll probably wait to have lunch there. We camp at a 'village' called Riyul, although there probably won't be anyone around. Our horses will be grazing happily on this rich grass, though.

Tso Kar Lake is the 'salt lake' of Rupshu, previously the site of large salt excavations by the Rupshu-pa nomads, a section of the lake given to each group each year when the salt trade between Tibet and the lower hills was thriving (after the border with China was closed in 1959). Today, Tso Kar Lake is not as salty as it previously was, and the salt trade has diminished in importance because if the introduction of iodized and subsidized Indian salt. There is a small Tibetan village to the north of the lake called Tukje with an old gompa; most of the people of Tso Kar lake are Tibet semi-nomadic people who spend the winters in their villages at the lake.

DAY 26: TSOKAR-LEH :
The trek is finished, and we'll relax in our jeeps and enjoy the spectacular five hour drive through Rupshu and the Indus Valley along the Manali - Leh highway; a continuation of our wonderful journey. Back at the Shynam Guest House in Leh, hot showers and a clean change of clothes await, and tandoori food and cold beers are not far away at the Ibex or Summer Harvest.

DAY 25: LEH :
One last day in our favorite Central Asian capital; we can finish up our shopping, visit some of the parts of Leh which we didn't have time to see at the start of the trek, or sit in the garden of the Shynam Hotel and relax. We'll meet for our last dinner together in the evening, and celebrate an incredible journey through the nomadic regions of 'old Tibet'!

DAY 26: LEH-DELHI :
You're up early for your flight back to Delhi, you'll have spectacular views of Ladakh, the many ranges of mountains and the Indus Valley on the way back. You'll be met at Delhi Our representative will be receive you and drive to hotel for overnight. Rest of the time visit Old Delhi.

DAY 27: DELHI DEPARTURE :
After lunch check out from the hotel, and commence half day New Delhi sightseeing. Late evening in time dep. transfer to international airport. end the services.

Price Includes :
* 07 Nights Hotel on Bed and Breakfast Basis/ 19 Night Two men mountain tent, twin sharing basis on Full Board (All meals includes)
* A/c transportation in Delhi, Leh all sector drive and sightseeing by Non ac local Jeep (04 person in a jeep)
* Horses or Donkey for carrying the camping gear with clients baggage (20kg Maximum)
* Camping gear as Cook, Assistance, Camp boy,
*All Monasteries visit, and necessary Permit.
* English Speaking guide at Delhi/ Leh E. S. tour guide cum trek manager.

Price Does Not Includes :
* Any personal clothing such as sleeping bags, warm cloths etc.
*Any airfare or airport tax.
*All presently applicable taxes.
*Any insurance or claim due to natural calamities such as land slide, road blockage etc.
*Any expense of personal nature such as hard/soft drinks, laundry, phone/fax calls, tips etc.
*Any other expense not mentioned in the "Price includes".

Price Valid April 2012 to Sep. 2012 Only

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