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A feast of scenic and ethnic diversity, the Markha
Valley with Ruphu Valley Trek is one of the Ladakh's classic treks, a
rugged high-altitude hiking on Stok range. Begin the Trek at the famous
trailhead at Hemis Monastery. Along the way we pass prayer flags
rippling silently in the fresh wind, and walk into small green valleys,
greeted by cheery herders. We cross three passes including Kongmaru La
(5150 Mts.), higher than two others' to reach the Markha valley south
of Leh. Many named & un-named peaks in the altitude
range of 5500 Mts. To 6400 Mts. makes the great amphitheater. We start
our trek at Martselang & end our trek at the village of Stok.
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You can spent the nomads at the high altitude
grazing plateau of Nyimaling, and contour around the majestic,
snow-capped Kang Yatze, cresting a panoramic pass before reaching the
remote valley leading into Kharnak. After crossing the 5200 meter
Zalung Karpo La, with snow-clad Kang Yatze behind us, we enter the
Ladakhi nomadic region of Kharnak. We camp in our own Tibetan-style
festival tent near the Kharnak-pa nomadic settlements, their flocks of
sheep and goats herded into camp in the late afternoon by the shrill
cries of the nomad inhabitants. Their yak-hair tents, which they move
caravan-style every few months, are the same as they have been for
centuries, worth a visit for a cup of salt-butter tea, fresh yogurt and
a handful of yos. This region, the Changtang plateau, extends far north
into Tibet, and sits along the old Silk Route, once the main
highway for the exchange of silk, tea, pearls, wool, salt and other
commodities.
Kyang (wild ass), marmots, pika, Himalayan hare
and a variety of high altitude birds share the high plateaus with us,
so bring your binoculars. A wonderful journey through a piece of 'old
Tibet'!
| Season: |
Mid June –
Mid September |
| Grade: |
Challenging Trek |
| Duration: |
26 Nights |
| Highest Point: |
5450M Yalung Nyau La, |
| Cost:-2012
|
US $ 3075/- Per Person on
Twin Sharing Basis. (Minimum 02 Paying Pax) |
DAY 1: ARRIVAL DELHI:
A representative will meet your inside the arrival hall at New Delhi
International transfer to you your hotel, usually not much time before
your flight the next morning so try to get to sleep as early as
possible. Hotel near by the airport because you have the flight to Leh.
DAY 2: DELHI - LEH, 3500m (FLIGHT)
Very early in the morning in steamy Delhi as you board the spectacular
flight out of Delhi, crossing the main Himalayan Barrier and flying
over much of Zanskar and Ladakh to reach Leh. On arrival at Leh airport
meet to our assistace drive to hotel. You should feel the elevation
when you arrive, it's a big jump from sea-level to 3500 meters, and it
will take your body a few days to adjust to this altitude. Drink plenty
of water, rest and don't over-exert yourself wandering around Leh.
Afternoon a short walk in the Leh Market. Overngiht at hotel.
DAY 3: LEH :
We've scheduled extra days to enjoy the peaceful, willow-lined streets
and bustling bazaar of Singge Namgyal's 17th century capital of Ladakh.
There is lots to explore in this wonderful town, the newly-restored
ruins of the royal Leh Palace, the ancient Leh Fort and attached
Namgyal Tsemo Gompa, other colorful Tibetan Buddhist gompas.
Recommended take a 'jeep safari' through the fertile Indus Valley to
visit Sankar Gompa, Shanti Stupa and Spituk monaster, the Mahayana
Buddhist gompas, the crumbling ruins of ancient fortresses and palaces
and the traditional villages that dot the banks of the region, the
'cradle of civilization' of much of the ancient world.
DAY 4: LEH- JINCHEN - YURUTE 3900
(5-6 HRS TREK) :
After breakfast, we jump into our jeeps and head for the start of the
trek, turning off the Leh Srinagar highway just past the ancient, 14th
century Spitok Gompa, spectacularly perched on a craggy hillock above
the cultivated fields of Spitok village. After crossing the Indus River
and following it on a precipitous road for an hour, we intersect the
Jinchan Chu (river) and meet our horsemen and team at the hamlet of
Jingchan. Time to start trekking .
With the Jingchan Chu as our guide, we trek up a narrow, green valley,
crossing many times on small, wooden bridges or jumping when there is
no bridge, stopping for lunch under shady trees. The trail pass through
a small canyon, past cairns with prayer flags and Buddhist mani walls,
and have our first view of the snow-peaks of the Stok Range to the
south and the Ladakh Range to the north. Entering a broad valley, we
reach the grassy campsite at Rumbak Sumdo where we set up our first
camp of the trek. We'll set you up in your tents, show you around our
'Kamzang' style dining tent and settle in with a mug of tea. Beers are
available at a small tea-house nearby, and since we haven't ascended
too high, you can chill one in the stream!
DAY 5: YURUTSE- GANDA LA (4980M)
SHINGO-SKIU 3750M, 7-8 HRS TREK:
Our first pass day. It's not a difficult or long pass, and shouldn't
take more than two hours to the top from high camp. We start off with a
steep climb of the hill to the right of camp, along a gully, and then
switch backing up to the top of the hill. Behind us, Stok Kangri looms
impressively, and we will take some time to catch our breath and take
in the views. It will take us about an hour to reach the pass from
here; at the Ganda La (4980 meters), 360 degree views await us, and we
can see as far as the Zanskar Range to the south. After hanging our
first multi-colored Tibetan prayer flags, we head steeply down into the
Shingo Valley, which we can see below us. The trail becomes more
gradual, and about 2 and half hours later, having passed a local
'doksa', a long mani wall flanked by impressive chortens and a small
'parachute' tea-house, we wander through Shingo Village and arrive at
our green campsite nearby. Shingo is a small hamlet of two house,
marked by chortens and a mani wall, situated along a small, sparkling
stream. Continue follow the "Chu" till the Skiu (Markah River), Heading
down-valley through a narrow, colorful canyon of craggy rocks and
unusual rock formations, we cross the Shingo stream several times en
route (jumping). Willows shade us a bit as we continue on, and the
seabuckthorne bushes will be sagging under the weight of their tart,
orange berries. Passing a tea-house along the trail followed by a line
of ancient chortens, we reach the lovely village of Skyu, and have time
to explore the thousand year old Skyu Gompa and have a cup of tea at
one of the many parachute tents. Here at Skyu, we intersect the route
into the Markha Valley from Chilling, and intersect the Markha River,
Very nice camping site near by the Markha river.
DAY 6: SKIU-MARKHA, 3760M, 7-8 HRS
TREK:
Continuing along the Markha River along the left bank, we pass the many
white-washed chortens, mani walls and ancient, carved Buddha rocks that
mark the trail out of Skyu, and trek through willow and poplar groves,
past traditional Ladakh houses, up onto a cliff-side trail. We'll reach
a cluster of old, crumbling chortens perched high on a ridge, which
afford us a wonderful view up and down the valley, in a couple of hours
and soon afterwards will arrive at the parachute tent at Sumdo for
lunch. A beautiful, diverse, as we continue again along the left bank
of the Markha River. Leaving camp, we ascend gradually to a wide
plateau with a long mani wall and chortens, and then descend to the two
houses of Nakdi, which look out towards an ancient meditation cave on
the plateau across the river. We arrive Sara, the parachute-tent and
camping site at the rocky riverbed which intersects the Markha River,
and then pass briar patches of seabuckthorne and the ruins of ancient
'dzongs' and monasteries built high up into the cliff sides. Crossing
another small bridge, we reach the small tea-house of a local
wood-carver and walk along the left bank of the river, past the fields
of Chalak, with spectacular canyons and spires above us, along the
trail marked by old, crumbling Tibetan chortens. After passing a long
mani wall and impressive, giant chortens (look back for wonderful views
of the Markha Valley behind us), we'll stop for a break at an ancient
'lhatoo', or offering monument for the local mountain deities, where
offerings of chang are served up in sheep horns. A powerful site. As we
approach the intersection of the Markha valley with another small
tributary about an hour later, we'll pass a group of tri-colored
chorten marking the valley, gaze up-valley at the cliff-dwelling built
into the valley wall, and descend by the wolf trap to the river, where
we often have a wide river crossing (sandals recommended). We'll see
the ruins of the Markha fort ahead of us on a hillside before we arrive
at the village about half an hour later. We camp at one of two
wonderful, grassy campsites, and are visited by all the village kids
before dinner ...
DAY 7: MARKHA-THACHUNCHE 4260M, 6-7
HRS TREK:
Another classic Himalaya trekking day, a bit longer than yesterday,
starting with a climb up on the cliff-side trail just past
camp for amazing views back to the Ladakh Range. We have two
river crossings today, so bring your sandals in your daypack. The first
crossing comes just after our first descent, not deep but wide. Just
afterwards we'll spot the monolith and stone 'lama's seat' where a
local Druk-pa Lama gives a yearly puja. Look up the valley off to the
right leading to the Ruberang La and the wild Jumlam trek.
One more river crossing and we've reached the
breath-taking Tertha Gompa, also affiliated with Hemis Gompa, built at
the top of a razor-sharp rock, and with views up and down the valley.
We'll hike up for a look; they've recently built a new assembly hall
above the old one. Soon, we approach the small hamlet of Umlung, at
3900 meters, where we'll stop for a seabuckthorn juice, produced
locally by the Markha women's groups. From Umlung, take the high,
cliff-side trail when the water is high; it affords wonderful views in
any case.
Ahead of us, the dramatic 6400 meter Kang Yatze
finally comes into sight, its peak a pure, triangular snow-cap. We have
another hour or so of river-side walking in blue-sheep territory before
reaching Hangkar (3950 meter) guarded by a fantastic fortress way up on
the top of a rock spire. From Hangkar, it's a wonderful
two-hour afternoon walk up to the summer grazing area of Thagutse,
where the dramatic afternoon high-altitude light make for spectacular
photos. Our campsite is another beautiful one, so enjoy a late
afternoon wash in the gurgling, rocky stream, or take a short hike and
look out for blue sheep, which descend to the stream for a drink.
Plenty of bird life as well ...
DAY 8: THACHUNCHE - NIMALING 4850M,
5-6 HRS TREK:
Another wonderful day of trekking, not long but absolutely spectacular,
with broad views of the Zanskar range, and Kang Yatze as a back-drop.
The trail snakes up the valley in back of our campsite, and crests
several ridges before reaching a small doksa and pond where the
reflection of Kang Yatze and the peak itself right in front of us
reward us for our climb. In back of us is one of the most dramatic
views of the trek, with layers and layers of peaks clothed in subtle
hues guarding the skyline. Another hour brings us to the high altitude
grazing region of Nyimaling, where Hangkar villagers herd their flocks
of Pashmina sheep as they've done for centuries. We set up another
scenic campsite, have lunch and have the entire afternoon to wander,
look for wildlife and explore this unique, high plateau. Yaks roam
freely, creating a perfect Tibetan environment. To the right is the
Kongmaru-La, the 5200 meter pass that leads out of the Markha Valley.
Just before sunset the villagers return to their
stone doksas with their flocks of hundreds of sheep and goats, and we
can head over for a visit, perhaps even for a bowl of fresh yogurt.
Sunsets are truly awe-inspiring on the plateau, with a flaming, red orb
descending behind the hills in down-valley from us, and setting the
snaking Nyimaling Chu ablaze with color.
DAY 9: NIMALING- ZALUNG KARPO (High
Camp 4675m) 7-8 HRS TREK:
We'll have an early morning start with the sheep as it's a long day,
nearly eight hours, and you'll need your sandals for the tail-end of
it. Heading up the deceptively steep ridge in back of camp, right
towards Kang Yatze, keep right and low as we contour around the
snow-peak to the ridge visible ahead. At the second, cairn-marked
ridge, we descend to Kang Yatze Base Camp and ford a small stream,
usually jump-able, contouring for another hour towards the Kongka
Ngongpo La (5090 meters). After admiring the broad views, we
switch-back right back down, steeply and a bit precipitously, towards
the Langthang Chu Valley and our High Camp for the Zalung Karpo La. Our
barely-perceptible trail leads us past summer doksas and into more blue
sheep territory.
After lunch on a rocky-outcropping, we descend to
the river and Mani Chen, meaning 'place of mani stones', an old stop on
the nomadic route. If the rivers are low we'll continue on another hour
or so to Zalung Karpo La High Camp, a rocky campsite with late
afternoon sun. We'll have a few small river crossings en route, and if
its hot you might even want to jump into one of the inviting pools of
clear water.
DAY 10: ZALUNG KARPO- TSOKARA 4330m
(over Zalung Karpo La 5220m) 7-8 HRS TREK:
We'll have an early start for our first pass, the Zalung Karpo La, and
again you'll probably want your sandals with you if the rivers are
high. It will take us less than an hour of rocky, riverside walking to
reach the access valley to the pass from camp, our valley is the second
large valley on the right, just ten minutes past the first one. Heading
up this rocky valley, we follow a small stream much of the way up as we
gradually ascend until the way opens up to a false summit, and finally
about an hour later, the 5220 meter Zalung Karpo La itself. Ahead in
the distance, both the Zanskar and the Himalayan ranges are visible, an
impressive site.
If it's not too windy, we'll have lunch at the
prayer flags on top of the pass. The descent is steep and sandy, and
the valley below can be scorching; we are now entering Kharnak,
translated as 'black fort', the high altitude grazing region of the
Ladakhi nomads. We have about 2 1/2 more hours of hiking, with a few
hills but mostly river-walking, and possibly a few tricky river
crossings depending on the water lever. Finally, 7-8 hours from this
morning's campsite, we'll reach our lovely, grassy campsite at the
grazing region called Tsokra.
DAY 11: TSOKARA- DAT 4310m, 6-7 HRS
TREK:
A canyon day, another long one, starting with easy river crossings as
we trek along an easy river-side trail, continuing through a nomadic
settlement with threshing fields and an old mill which look as if
they've not been used for years, and then through other nomadic
settlements with livestock paddocks and stone looms, more recently used
(as seen by the amount of livestock droppings). The ruined fort, called
'Khar Fortress' (and which Kharnak is named after), is perched
impressively above us, an ancient guard of the many valleys. The day
continues with more superlatives springing to mind. We approach a
fantastic, narrow and sculpted canyon of ankle deep water (why use the
bridge?) and then a broad canyon of dramatic spires, tawny cliffs,
willows and a gurgling river. We'll take the willowy trail on the right
side of the river as blue sheep have kicked stones from above, which
have come hurtling down on the left trail ... Note the wonderful
cliffs, sculpted by centuries of ice and water erosion.
Turning left at the wide intersection of Tantse
Sumdo, we follow the Kharnak (or Chang) Chu, headding further into
Kharnak and the pasturelands of Dat. Another 2 1/2 hours later, after
trekking through a hot, bug-infested (but lovely)
valley of willows and cliffs cut by the Kharnak Chu, the valley opens
to damp, green pastures. Lunch is somewhere nearby. We climb on a
cliff-side trail, descend again, and soon reach the fantastic Kharnak
'lhatoo' (called Lhatoo on the map), where the nomads and local monks
make offerings to their local deities during a ceremony called Gertsa,
which takes place for five days from the end of May to early June
(corresponds with Saga Dawa). Men place a new ritual arrow on the
lhatoo, signifying men's protection under the gods. (Women aren't
allowed at this ceremony ...). Beautifully carved mani stones are piled
along extensive platforms, yak skulls carved with Om Mani Padme Hum are
stacked in the main altar, bowls smelling of old butter await next
year's puja and multi-colored prayer flags flutter in the wind. Red and
yellow-billed Choughs, revered as messengers of the mountain gods, sit
aloft high prayer-flag poles. Climb the hill for a great view. Overall,
an impressive entrance to Dat!
Continuing on through a lush valley of meandering
streams and springs bordered by high, brick-red, wildly contorted
cliffs, we pass other doksas and more lhatoos, shrines to the mountain
gods that live on the surrounding peaks. Yaks graze and cool themselves
in the streams, and a cloud of dust could be a nomad on horseback. A
couple of hot hours later, after cresting two arid plateaus with long
mani walls and wonderful carvings which indicate an old trade route, we
have reached Dat.
Our campsite for the next two nights is lovely,
high pastureland next to the now-deserted village of Shemen. Dat, which
houses approximately forty families (although many have now moved to
Choglamsar) in the Spring and late Autumn, is actually composed of the
two villages of Dango (upper) and Shemen (lower). The nomadic villagers
move to the Sangtha and Lumgmoche valleys with their flocks in the
summer months, and to the valley behind Dat few a couple of months in
the wintertime.
Marmots share the campsite with us and kyang might
check us out from the ridge above Dat. Sunsets and sunrises are
glorious from camp, so it's worth a visit to the small, monk-run
teahouse to pick up a beer for 'sundowner' ...
DAY 12: DAT - LUNGMOCHE 4730M (OVER
YAR LA 4950M) 7-8 HRS TREK:
Another pass day, starting with a flat, three hour hike down-valley,
parallel to the Zanskar Range, during which we often see the herd of
kyang that reside in the nearby valleys and wander these valleys (kyang
translates as 'wander' in Ladakhi). The male often comes out to the
main valley to scout for the herd of females and younger males, all of
which will snort, paw the ground and arrange an impressive maneuver for
us if their territory is threatened. Himalayan hares also live in the
valley, and dart in and out of site. Fill your bottles at the turnoff
to the pass valley as there may not be any water until the other side
of our pass, the 4950 meter Yar La. We have lunch at the start of the
pass (or at top if we're fit and moving fast), and then head up towards
the pass, a relatively easy climb of just over an hour from lunch,
following the winter snow wall. The chorten on the pass has some
beautiful carvings including the Kharnak mountain deity, a lovely
mountain goddess called Tsering Ma (Ched Inga), the eldest of five
sisters, also recognized in Tibet. Most of these nomadic mountain
dieties are Bon dieties which have been subdued by Guru Rimpoche as
protectors of the Buddhist faith. We can see the campsite just five
minutes down the pass, and it will only take us half an hour to reach
camp at Lungmoche, another lovely pastureland, again with a nearby
stream for washing. We're in kyang territory still, so keep your
cameras ready ...
DAY 13; LUNGMOCHE - SPAGMUR 4610M,
6-7 HRS TREK:
Heading down valley along the snaking riverbed, we pass the summer
habitations of the Ladakhi nomads, now just rings of rocks for the
yak-hair tents, wells and stone storage huts. Kyang also inhabit this
valley; we've seen them racing across the valley to ward us off.
Climbing a small pass to the right of the trail, we descend through a
fantastic canyon of sculpted rocks to the plateau of Sangtha village,
and its sparse settlement which locals inhabit in the autumn. This
village marks the end of Ladakhi nomadic region and the start of
Tibetan one. After crossing the Zara Chu (bring your sandals), which
eventually leads to Zanskar, we stop for lunch at the chortens marking
the entrance to Spagmur and the exit from Sangtha. Another few hours of
trekking brings us to the Tibetan village of Spagmur, perhaps with a
herd of yaks grazing nearby. Look back across the Zara Chu to see 'The
Five Sisters' peaks, the dwelling of the five mountain goddesses that
live in the distinctly shaped range.
DAY 15: SPAGMUR - NARBUS 4820M, 7-8
HRS TREK:
We start right up the steep slope heading towards the 4950 meter
Spogmur La, having to contour around several hillsides to reach the top
two hours later; from here, we are treated to wide open mountain views
and we can spot way below the canvas and yak-hair tents of the Tibetan
nomadic settlement of Narbus, where we'll set up camp for the night.
Some relatives of Lobsang's, one of our guides, camp here every summer,
and we can take a look at the inside of a nomad tent or two in the
afternoon. Be ready, as we will be offered salt tea and fresh curd
(yogurt). Narbus is a good place to donate your supplies or extra
clothes; two years ago we had a meeting of a the women from each tent,
and distributed evenly much needed school supplies and extras, and last
year we bargained for yak and sheep-hair blankets and nomadic knives
with binoculars, a Leatherman and some cash.
The evenings are a wonderful time of the day here;
as the sun just begins to set, the nomads return to camp herding their
hundreds of sheep and goats, and the yaks wander back to the tents,
followed by the haunting yells of the Tibetans.
DAY 16 NARBUS- NUMA RIVER CAMP
4610M, 7-8 HRS TREK:
After goodbyes to our Markha Valley trekkers, we cut across the Narbus
valley for two hours to the Leh - Manali highway, and then right across
the plateau towards the spectacular canyon that extends from Pang. It
can be hot and there is now shade, so it's a good day for an umbrella.
Look up and down valley in as the views are spectacular, especially as
we reach the edge of the plateau leading to Pang. Dropping steeply down
a scree-filled gully, we slip our way down to the riverbed far below.
Our campsite is right on the river at the intersection of a lovely
stream, under the pillars of eroded sand which have formed themselves
into Himalayan cathedrals called hoodoos. We'll have time in the
afternoon for a wash in the river, or a wander up the stream bed to the
left of camp ...
DAY 17: NUMA RIVER CAMP-ZOZGONG
4940M, 8-9 HRS TREK:
The trek takes on a completely different character now, as we follow
the wide valley for 2 1/2 hours along the flood plain, jumping (and
splashing through) the river many times and passing three large valleys
(one without water) to the left side of the river. Crumbling hoodoos
line the trail on either side, backed by vivid blue skies and fluffy
Himalayan clouds. Eventually, we reach the large turnoff at the far
left of the valley, which leads to the base of the Thelekang La, the
4980 meter pass above our camp. From the turnoff, it should take us
about 1 1/2 hours of walking along a small stream with wide open views
to reach the hill leading to the pass, and another easy hour of
climbing to the pass. En route, we'll see large flocks of sheep and
Pashmina goats roaming the hillsides with their owners. Below us, we
see the horses reaching our campsite and ahead in the distance, the
snow-capped Himalayas to the south of Lake Tso Moriri. Zozogong is a
fantastic campsite; years ago we woke up surrounded by snow after an
evening of kyang spooking our horses the night before. There is
sometimes a group of Korzok-pa nomads camped here, so we may have
company. Views are great, camp is grassy, there is plenty of water for
washing, so enjoy the afternoon!
DAY 18: ZOZGONG - THARGANG NOMAD
CAMP 4750M, 7-8 HRS TREK:
We'll have a leisurely morning as it's such a nice spot, and start off
down the wide flood-plain heading towards the impressive Himalayan
range ahead. More kyang spotting this morning in what we call 'kyang
valley' about one and half hours from camp; we often first spot the
'alpha' male keeping watch for the herd of younger males and females,
snorting and pawing as we approach, and then gathering the whole herd
together and kicking up a trail of dust as they bolt by us, close by.
We might also see Himalayan hare, pikas, voles and marmot, and there
are many of high-altitude birds en route. The plain becomes soft and
marshy as the river runs below it and flowers bloom abundantly; nearby
we'll stop for lunch, about three hours from camp, on a grassy knoll.
Past more grazing valleys and nomad encampments, we continue along the
flood plains to our campsite, near a Ladakhi nomadic settlement. Most
of the nomads are gone until the evening, but we might wander over to
see if they have any fresh curd; one year Kim bought a wonderful
blanket from these nomads, so worth a look around. Kyang also roam the
nearby valleys, and over the next few days we should see many of these
majestic creatures.
We might continue on another hour to 'Himalaya
View Camp' which we discovered last year, a less windy spot with
wonderful views and a pebbly, gurgling river beside the grassy banks.
DAY 19 THARGANG - LHATOO GOMPA
4670M, 6-7 HRS TREK:
Off towards another pass, but a small one this time, the Mani Chen La.
Staying on the left of the river (we have to jump it from camp), we
follow the pebbly, clear river which reflects the Himalayas in the calm
of the morning. We either crest a few small plateaus, or stay along the
river if it's low. From 'Himalaya View Camp' about 1 1/2 hours from
camp it's only another half an hour of easy climbing to the Manechan La
(4765m). We approach a doksa after the steep descent from the pass, and
have to jump two streams and cross three plateaus as we continue
down-valley. The large, rounded granite boulders and chunks of
crystallized quartz indicate that the landscape is changing. We'll
likely see more kyang at the lhatoo before camp. After a short day,
we'll have lunch on the grassy plateau at a large, bubbling stream just
across from camp to let the boys unload the horses which should arrive
at around the same time that we do. There is a gurgling stream next to
the dining tent, and if the sun is out it's a wonderful spot for
bathing.
DAY 20: LHATOO-KYANGDOM 4530M, 7-8
HRS TREK:
Today it seems as if we drop off the edge of the world as we follow the
rocky gorge bottom past nomad camps marked by stone circles and
bleached sheep skulls. It is a wonderful 'river walk' day with kyang
mirroring us as we trek down-valley; we stay on the left bank, or walk
in the center of the valley on smooth river pebbles. The canyon seems
to shut itself behind us at the large river bend to the left after
nearly four hours, and just after this we might need our sandals if the
river is high. There are some springs along the river if you need to
fill your bottles. We have another hour until we climb on a slightly
exposed trail for our first, spectacular view the turquoise Lake Tso
Moriri, which stretches north from here for 26 kilometers. Below, past
the sculptural twists and turns of the delta, is our campsite of
Kyangdom, home to groups of Ladakhi nomads for a few months of the
summer. We'll set up lunch here, in our perfect Himalayan cafe.
Kyangdom, which translates as 'realm of the kyang' (kyang means roam in
Ladakhi), actually does harbor many kyang in the southern delta. They
often stand still and shimmering in the morning sun, seeming an
illusion from a far away desert land ...
There is time to explore in the afternoon; watch
the geese and ducks, spot the cormorants, photograph the lake, set up
your camp chair in the sun and watch the world of the nomads go by. The
Korzok-pa nomads often camp just across the streams from camp, and an
excursion to one of their tents to buy some 'tsampa' (barley flour),
'yos' (half-popped barley) or 'chang' (barley beer) is a step back into
time. At the end of the afternoon, the sheep, Pashmina goats and yaks
return to the nomad camps, herded by wild-looking nomads on horseback,
and later the sunset turns the lake shades of pink and orange ...
DAY 21: KYANGDOM - KORZOK PHU,
4640M, 8-9 HRS TREK:
We'll leave our lovely camp early as it's a long, hot trek along the
eastern edge of Lake Tso Moriri to our camp at Korzok Phu. It's a
wonderful day of walking along smooth rocks reflecting in the river,
watching the geese, up and over hills where you get views of the clouds
and snow-peaks to the west mirrored in the lake, next to sandy beaches
and across a river or two after lunch, no sandals needed. Water is
scarce until this point, so be prepared. After lunch next to some
rounded, granite rocks on the bank of the lake, we jump these two
run-off streams, continue past many mani walls and make one last climb
to reach the small pass which affords us magnificent views of the
renovated Korzok Gompa and the surrounding village. A further half hour
brings us to Korzok, a popular camping spot as the road from Leh
reaches here. We'll explore the gompa a bit, have a cup of tea,
stock-up on beer for later and then continue on to our campsite 45
minute inland. This last bit of the day is lovely, following a
well-used trail and a meandering stream, jumping from one dry green
tussock to another, to reach our camp in the midst of all of the
nomadic action. Welcome to Korzok Phu.
DAY 22: FULL DAY REST:
Why not stay a day after all of this arduous trekking and enjoy this
bustling, colorful settlement? Nomad boys cruise by on their donkeys if
there isn't school that day, and many children stop by to see if there
are any pens or pencils being handed out. Kim will lead the shopping
expedition to several nomad tents in search of yak-hair blankets and a
cup of salt butter tea ...
DAY 23: KARZOK PHU - CHANGAM 5250M,
We leave early for the steep climb up to the 5450 M Yalung Nyau La, it
should take us about an hour of walking along the plateau to reach the
approach to the pass, and then three more hours to crest the
prayer-flag festooned pass. The weather can be changeable, so be ready
for anything. The views back down to Tso Moriri are wonderful, and to
the south of the pass are the Mentok (flower) Peaks. The descent is
beautiful, past grazing areas and through grassy, narrow valleys and a
slate-slab river which we'll need to jump a few times. We stop for
lunch on a grassy knoll next to the river, kick off our shoes, and
enjoy a deserved rest! We continue through the small settlement of
Sherma and another called Barma, crossing a river in between (you can
wade without shoes if you don't feel like carrying your sandals over
the pass). One more river crossing, this time possibly jump-able, past
Barma and we head up and over the relatively small pass ahead of us,
Kartse La (4505 meters) and right down to our grassy campsite at
Changma, our highest yet at 5210 meters. This valley is pure Tibet;
open, grassy plateaus, wild, amazing views, big sky and nomads on
horseback herding their sheep.
DAY 24: CHANGAM - RAJUNG KARU 4880M,
8-9 HRS TREK:
A short but beautiful day, starting with a two hour trek up the wide
open 'Tibetan' plateau, with marmots and pikas popping their heads out
of their holes to see who is passing, walking through herd of
wild-looking yaks and dri (female yaks) with their young frolicking by
their sides. The high route back to the valley we took to Tso Moriri is
visible at the upper left side of the valley. We follow a winding,
crystal clear stream for most of the way up to the pass, and eventually
veer to the right to ascend the Kyamayuri La (5430 meters), an easy
ascent. At the prayer flags at the top of the pass we finally get a
view of Tso Kar Lake below us, and the trail leading down to it. The
descent to camp will take us about 2 hours, and en route we'll pass by
many nomadic encampments with their Tibetan mastiffs chained to a stick
in the ground, hopefully tightly. More kyang in this green valley.
Again, we follow the river to our camp at Rajung Karu, set up, have
lunch and enjoy the rest of the afternoon.
DAY 25: RAJUNG KARU -
TSOKAR LAKE 4560M, 6-7 HRS TREK:
Our last trekking day, with a wonderful destination. It will take us 2
hours to reach the Horlam Kongka La (4950 meters), and we'll have a
river crossing first. More nomad camps, more grassy tussocks, and an
easy ascent of the rounded saddle for closer views of Tso Kar. The
descent isn't the most interesting, passing through the settlement of
Nuruchen with its supply posts, but our campsite is spectacular, so
we'll probably wait to have lunch there. We camp at a 'village' called
Riyul, although there probably won't be anyone around. Our horses will
be grazing happily on this rich grass, though.
Tso Kar Lake is the 'salt lake' of Rupshu,
previously the site of large salt excavations by the Rupshu-pa nomads,
a section of the lake given to each group each year when the salt trade
between Tibet and the lower hills was thriving (after the border with
China was closed in 1959). Today, Tso Kar Lake is not as salty as it
previously was, and the salt trade has diminished in importance because
if the introduction of iodized and subsidized Indian salt. There is a
small Tibetan village to the north of the lake called Tukje with an old
gompa; most of the people of Tso Kar lake are Tibet semi-nomadic people
who spend the winters in their villages at the lake.
DAY 26: TSOKAR-LEH :
The trek is finished, and we'll relax in our jeeps and enjoy the
spectacular five hour drive through Rupshu and the Indus Valley along
the Manali - Leh highway; a continuation of our wonderful journey. Back
at the Shynam Guest House in Leh, hot showers and a clean change of
clothes await, and tandoori food and cold beers are not far away at the
Ibex or Summer Harvest.
DAY 25: LEH :
One last day in our favorite Central Asian capital; we can finish up
our shopping, visit some of the parts of Leh which we didn't have time
to see at the start of the trek, or sit in the garden of the Shynam
Hotel and relax. We'll meet for our last dinner together in the
evening, and celebrate an incredible journey through the nomadic
regions of 'old Tibet'!
DAY 26: LEH-DELHI :
You're up early for your flight back to Delhi, you'll have spectacular
views of Ladakh, the many ranges of mountains and the Indus Valley on
the way back. You'll be met at Delhi Our representative will be receive
you and drive to hotel for overnight. Rest of the time visit Old Delhi.
DAY 27: DELHI DEPARTURE :
After lunch check out from the hotel, and commence half day New Delhi
sightseeing. Late evening in time dep. transfer to international
airport. end the services.
Price Includes :
* 07 Nights Hotel on Bed and Breakfast Basis/ 19 Night Two men mountain
tent, twin sharing basis on Full Board (All meals includes)
* A/c transportation in Delhi, Leh all sector drive and sightseeing by
Non ac local Jeep (04 person in a jeep)
* Horses or Donkey for carrying the camping gear with clients baggage
(20kg Maximum)
* Camping gear as Cook, Assistance, Camp boy,
*All Monasteries visit, and necessary Permit.
* English Speaking guide at Delhi/ Leh E. S. tour guide cum trek
manager.
Price Does Not Includes :
* Any personal clothing such as sleeping bags, warm cloths etc.
*Any airfare or airport tax.
*All presently applicable taxes.
*Any insurance or claim due to natural calamities such as land slide,
road blockage etc.
*Any expense of personal nature such as hard/soft drinks, laundry,
phone/fax calls, tips etc.
*Any other expense not mentioned in the "Price includes".
Price Valid April 2012 to Sep.
2012 Only
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